Why This Watch Matters

A classic tool watch from UG, featuring a "565"-style case shape.

The Full Story

The 1940s and 1950s were really the period that set the tone for the modern watches we see and love today. Universal Genève was really leading the charge during this time for the production of true tool watches. Sure, later the brand had the Polerouter and we like to focus on their chronographs but the brand was making plenty of other great more simple watches during their heyday as well.

This time-only field watch is truly an excellent example of Universal Genève at its best. Immediately noticeable is the "565"-style case shape. Getting its name from the Patek Philippe ref. 565, this style of case was popular in the 40s and 50s on early water-resistant, time-only watches. The general shape and downturn of the lugs allow the "small" diameter cases to wear significantly larger. The screw-down caseback provides enough water resistance for everyday wear. The dial is where this watch really shines with a clean overall look, the applied markers at each hour and Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are very UG in their style, as is the inner track for the hour hand. The creamy dial surface is contrasted well by the gold tone hands.

We paired this simple UG with one of the most simply great straps in the HODINKEE Shop, the Unlined Blue Shell Cordovan strap.

The Fine Print

What We Love And What You Should Know

Things We Love:

- Simple, time-only design
- Creamy patina across the dial
- "565"-style case shape

Things To Know:

- Concentrated areas of patina on dial
- Scratches on case

This Universal Genève is in overall nice, honest condition. The case is very strong with light scratches. The lugs, the main feature of the watch, are in extremely crisp condition. The caseback has a few scratches from previous opening attempts but the numbers are clearly visible. There are some marks on the rear side of the lugs from strap changes over the years.

The dial is in good condition and has developed a patina throughout. There is a concentrated patina near the center. The lume on the hour markers and hands has developed patina and aged to a generally dark tone. The hands have developed some patina.

The crystal has light scratches. The dial, case, and movement are all signed by Universal Genève. The crown is unsigned but of the correct shape for this era. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.